Proline
Proline® Ignition Coil For Stihl MS311 MS391 1140 400 1303 New Updated Version
Proline® ignition coil for Stihl MS311, MS391 chainsaws. This is our updated version (2.0) which has a refined 90° bend male spade connector. Please match you part with ours for proper fitment; actual pictures shown. 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed or your money back. All electrical parts can be returned ONLY if unopened and in new or unused condition. Any part that has be opened or installed will NOT be eligible for our return policy.
Includes:
- Ignition coil
- Spark plug boot
- Spark plug spring
Specs:
- OEM style 90° bend male spade connector
Replaces Stihl OEM #:
- 1140 400 1303, 11404001303
Proline® Ignition Coil For Stihl MS311 MS391 1140 400 1303 New Updated Version
Proline® ignition coil for Stihl MS311, MS391 chainsaws. This is our updated version (2.0) which has a refined 90° bend male spade connector. Please match you part with ours for proper fitment; actual pictures shown. 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed or your money back. All electrical parts can be returned ONLY if unopened and in new or unused condition. Any part that has be opened or installed will NOT be eligible for our return policy.
Includes:
- Ignition coil
- Spark plug boot
- Spark plug spring
Specs:
- OEM style 90° bend male spade connector
Replaces Stihl OEM #:
- 1140 400 1303, 11404001303
Customer Reviews
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Perfect replacement
New ignition coil with lead fit perfectly in place of the original factory part. You have to trim the lead to the exact length of the original part and install a new sparkplug boot and spring clip. After setting the pole-piece-to-flywheel gap to .010 inches, the saw started on the third pull,
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Works, but with a catch
As noted on the webpage, the male spade to which the shut-off-switch wire attaches is different from the OEM part. This presented a challenge. The wire wasn't long enough to clip onto the straight spade. I had to cut the wire and splice in a piece to make it work. The spark plug boot also has a sharper angle compared to the OEM part, which again required some finagling. At the end of the day, I would have bought the OEM part and paid the extra money to avoid the hassle. The part does work, however, and my saw is up and running again.